Oil temp

[wr1500]

What is the safe operating temp of the oil? I have had an oil temp sensor fitted and i dont really know what am looking at!

[ScoobyDan]

My 02 STI usually runs between 90 and 100c, sometimes goes up to about 110 when giving it some stick

[marky mark]

Dan has given some figures that are pretty normal, but to give you a safe figure really need to know what grade oil you are running. Also where have they put the temp sensor as this matters. some people put it in the sump plug which is innacurate and will read low.

[wr1500]

Mine is fitted at the oil filter, not sure what grade oil, just had it service by a subaru garage, so what ever they use. Good stuff i hope!

[marky mark]

Most of them use a semi synthetic which is the minimum recomended. this wont givr the same protection over its life as a top quality oil and will start to break down at a lower temp. If you do track work you should put something better in.

anywhere near 110 i would start to be concerned, where as something like 300V motul or ProS silkolene will be good at over 120.

[wr1500]

Can i take my own oil in on a service and say put that in instead of your cheap shit?

[marky mark]

Yes, most of the dealers will do that. If they dont take it somewhere else

[jd]

I supply all my own oils to my dealer with no problems.

[marky mark]

I supply all my own oils to my dealer with no problems.

JD is a man switched on! modified cars or cars that are tracked will run to the limits of what the semi synths can provide.

[wr1500]

So what oil would you recommend.

Also marky mark, have you seen my topic about the intake snorkus removal, losing the chamber for a u shaped pipe, do you think its worth while. I dont fancy the induction kit route, so i thought this may force a bit more air to the filter? Can rely on you for good sound advice!

[marky mark]

Silkolene ProS 10/40
Motul 300V 10/40
millers fully synth 10/40

Are all absolute top notch oils for most occasions.

Good prices for the motul and millers from AS performance, and Opie oils for silkolene and motul.

If your car is highly modified, does a lot of track work, or stays in the garage in winter use 15/50 of any of the above. This is a bit sticky for cold conditions on a standard car though and wont give you the best protection on cold start up.

i find i have a bit more oil pressure with the Motul over the silkolene (i run 15/50 though cos of 400 BHP+ heat) I have not personally tried the millers but all the guys who really know about oil say it is very good.

The reason i have not commented on the intake mod is im not 100% certain the affect it will have on a WR1. When removed or modified on a classic it has been proven to make a lot of noise and reduce power despite lots of keyboard heroes saying there car is 'fookin rapid M8'. Obviously putting a different one on is not the same as removing it.

I suspect that it wont really have a great affect either way by replacing it but i cant quantify that.

[marky mark]

Mine is fitted at the oil filter, not sure what grade oil, just had it service by a subaru garage, so what ever they use. Good stuff i hope!

Just re read this thread and you should be aware that you will not be reading the same temperature as the critical points (big ends) of your engine will be seeing.

It should really be in the main oil gallery. unfortunately some companies put it at the filter so they can sell you a sandwich plate or similiar thats not required.

where it is now you are checking the oil thats being slightly cooled by air and the water flowing round the modine. It heats up significantly as it flows through the galleries and into the crank and shells.

[wr1500]

Cheers mate, you are a total technical boff!

[jd]

is the Pro S available in 10-40?

http://www.opieoils.co.uk/performance_l ... 10w-50.pdf

[marky mark]

apparently not according to that but 10/50 is the stuff and will do fine.

I currently have in the Pro R 15/50, but next change i will put Motul back in i think simply because i get 0.4/0.5 bar more presure

[jd]

not sure weather to change the grade in mine.

using Pro S 5-40 at the moment but have been getting temperatureas up to 110 in the traffic and slow speeds over here, in uk hovers about 90.

[marky mark]

The thing is 5/40 is the recomended grade for the new age cars. This is because the bore to piston clearance is tighter than that of a classic which has a 10/40 recomendation.

You are already getting better shear protection JD because you are using a top quality synth, but with your spec im suprised that opie oils or whoever did not say run a 10 or even 15 wieght oil. However if you dont drive the car hard at all then it probably makes no difference either way.

Im on tight bore to piston clearance as well and use 15/50, this will be fine for yours. In am considering puting 10/40 in for the winter though this year.

[jd]

opie recommended the 5-40 as most of my journeys are short and would not get the heat into the oil, however i am unsure as my gauge says otherwise.

may look locally to see what is available in fully synthetic 10-40 as it is a pain having to order from opie when i need oil.

still have some 5-40 at home in garage though.

[marky mark]

opie recommended the 5-40 as most of my journeys are short and would not get the heat into the oil, however i am unsure as my gauge says otherwise.

I can see why he recommends 5/40 in that case. my daily journey to work is 5 miles each way but i do drive the car hard at other times. I get to about 85 deg on the way to work.

Im willing to trade slight, slow, wear (maybe reduce your piston/ring life a few %) for a catastrophic big end failure though so i choose to run the 15/50. I will not give the car any boost or over 3K until i am at least over 80 though.

[jd]

short journeys are the norm, gets to about 80/85 on way to work at the moment (bloody warm air temps though).

but with longer driving does go to 110 but then drops to the 100 mark and keeps doing this, so average 105.

Should I stay with 5-40 or go to 10-50?

[WR 1mposter]

im suprised that opie oils or whoever did not say run a 10 or even 15 wieght oil.

Opie HQ is a few miles from me, so not to far to get my oil
but the scenario on which oil for me to use was based on 2 near identical
bhp Skyline's at Santa pod, one with 5/40 the other 15/50, which one came first, the car with 5/40 ! and to prove oils does make a difference, they swapped the oils from one to the other, and still the car with 5/40 came first

so this is why I choose to run on 5/40 but will not use motul again as I found it went black very quick, as opposed to the shell super helix which looked as good as the day it went in after 4k's

But on my recent trip to the ring after a service at RCM they used 15/50 Pro R so i now have 1 opened 5lt can of Pro R, 1 opened 5lt can of shell super helix, and 1 unused 2lt can of motul

anyone want some oil

[marky mark]

Martin,

A car will always give a bit more power on thinner oil. thats a no brainer. The issue is will that thinner oil give you the protection you require.

Race engines are a completely different matter. They dont need to last and they must produce max power. When i build a full on race motor you do things like give it a lot of big end clearance and run the thinnest oil you dare. very good for power but not for longevity at all.

The test you describe above is not applicable other than the fact it proved that the thinner oil is giving a bit more power. It will do as it has less friction. A car such as yours which is producing a lot more heat than standard and creating much bigger bangs that will require thicker oil than standard to stop big end / crank pin problems

The reason the motul is black is because its working properly. giving the protection and cleaning combustion deposits that otherwise stick around piston rings etc. blackness is in no way a pointer to oil condition.

RCM put 15/50 in your car for a reason. They do know what they are doing.

[WR 1mposter]

RCM put 15/50 in your car for a reason. They do know what they are doing.

Do they

[Anders_WR1]

I run mine on Mobil 1 15/50 and have done since a bad experience with the dealer supplied oil. I was driving hard against a few people at lakeside and after a few runs, the oil temp was at 115 Degrees C. When I pulled in, the oil pressure went down to 1.7 BAR on the deffis. I kept my foot on the trottle to keep the revs up and oil pressure up.

After that I have always used Mobil 1 15/50. I know it's thick in the winter, but I don't mind sitting for a few minutes in the morning before driving.

I always let mine reach 85 Degrees C before driving hard.

Anders

[wr1500]

So by the sounds of things 15/50 looks good, i'll make sure i take some on my next service.

[marky mark]

RCM put 15/50 in your car for a reason. They do know what they are doing.

Do they

explain further then

[POESY]

Just a quick one, never really paid much attention to oil before, just kept it topped up but have noticed 2 things in the last week.

1. Was out in my mates RB5 at the weekend and after 10 mins of driving the oil temp was still only at 85 degrees . Makes you realise how long it really takes to warm up an engine. His car seems to run between 90 and 110 degrees.

2. Had a service, monday, new oil, oil pressure risen about 0.5 bar when on boost. Frequent oil changes ARE a good thing.

[danr55]

Just a quick one, never really paid much attention to oil before, just kept it topped up but have noticed 2 things in the last week.

1. Was out in my mates RB5 at the weekend and after 10 mins of driving the oil temp was still only at 85 degrees . Makes you realise how long it really takes to warm up an engine. His car seems to run between 90 and 110 degrees.

2. Had a service, monday, new oil, oil pressure risen about 0.5 bar when on boost. Frequent oil changes ARE a good thing.

when i had my RB5 it seemed to take ages to warm up, didnt have gauges, but it always felt like at least 10mins till it was ready. when it was first started it felt like total sh1te for the first couple of mins.but when properly warmed up -